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The famous shipwreck beach from the viewing platform, probably the most
photographed beach in Europe and the superb Hotel Cronulla Pool Laganas where you can relax
and take a dip, or just enjoy the view.
It's not often that Janice and I choose to return to
the same Island
because
there are many more to be seen, however we decided to re-visit Zakynthos after
a 5 year break with our friends Phil and Lisa and their son Ian in 1998.
Zakynthos, the third largest of the Ionian Islands, is surprisingly wild.
Fertile plains in the southeast merge gently into peaceful bays and golden
beaches. The western side of the island is mountainous and steep. A mild, Mediterranean climate and winter rainfall
gift's the place
with plentiful supplies of olive oil, grapes and citrus fruit. For a moment,
winding your way through a mountain village on a moped or rental car, the sight
of homemade rugs hung on whitewashed steps, or local olive oil in recycled Coca
Cola bottles, reminds you of the great cultural wonder to the east, Greece.
Hospitality is deeply rooted in the souls and often creates long lasting bonds
between Zakynthian people and the visitors of the Island. It is impossible to
pick out the most interesting spots or the most beautiful areas as everywhere
you go you will be charmed. Lovely beaches in Vassilikos, the gulf of Laganas,
the sandy Tsilivi and Alykes. Inspiring sunsets in Keri and Kampi will stay in
your memory as will visits to the Blue Caves or the Smugglers Wreck beach.
Lively resorts and entertaining places are to be found in Argasi, Laganas and
Tsilivi..
In 1953, an earthquake measuring 7.2 on the Richter scale shook the island to its core. The terrifying quake and subsequent fire razed its stock of mansion-houses and elegant, Venetian buildings to the ground. A rebuilding programme endeavoured to retain the old character, but most of Zakynthos’ architectural heritage was lost. Islanders searched their souls, and the answers came in package-sized pieces.
It wasn’t the first time the place had been desecrated.
Throughout its history, Zakynthos has faced raids by Romans,
Goths, and Vandals;
in 1479, it was destroyed
by
Turks.
Venetians conquered in 1485, ironically
paving the way for a
centre of
Hellenism. In 1807
Napoleon threw in his two
cents,
followed two years later by the British
navy. A Greek State was
established in 1864, but during Word War II,
Italians and
Germans subjected the
island to
occupation once again.
Now, apparently, it is our turn. The islanders are willing
co-conspirators,
however, and they
certainly have much to sell:
homemade wine
served in cliff-top
taverns, the breathtaking
spectacle of shipwreck beach, watersports, glass bottomed boats and an exhausted nine-to-
fiver’s
fill of sandy
beaches and
good books. Zakynthos is a nice place to leave too. Boat trips to Olympia (Check
out my seven wonders page on the Statue of Zeus),
ancient site of the Olympic Games, take just two hours. Kefalonia, the setting
for Louis de Bernières’ Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, is another near neighbour.
Invaded by Mussolini as part of his grand plan to resurrect the Roman Empire,
waves along these shores continue to lap up against one of the darkest episodes
in modern Greek history. When Italy surrendered to the Allies in 1943, the
Germans swooped, massacring 9,000 Italian troops.
This is what I had come for: the riotous sensation of warm body belly flopping into crystal-clear sea. That, a cool beer beneath a linen umbrella, and the taste of salt on sunburnt skin. And I know that isn’t everyone’s idea of an ideal holiday. But rest assured, if there were a job in the world that involved diving from 10m rocks into a turquoise ocean, you would immediately be spared my writing on this topic.
We stayed in
The Hotel Cronulla in the popular resort of Kalamaki which is set on a busy main Street about 15 minutes walk from the
lovely beaches. I was fortunate to contact one of the owners by email before
leaving for Greece and with his help was given a superb double room overlooking
the pool and sea. Being a self catering apparthotel we were able to choose a
different restaurant each evening for our two week stay. One of our favourites
was the popular Zepos Taverna on the Beach front. They had an excellent Greek
evening (bookable in advance recommended) which included traditional Greek
dishes, dancing, plate smashing and much more. We sampled many of the other
restaurants and all were of a high standard with friendly staff but Mikaelos just outside the main town was a bit special with fantastic Greek
cuisine cooked by "Mama". If you want to try mama's cooking go early, it's
always full. Top Breakfast in Kalamaki has to be The Mermaid.... gut busting.
The best beaches were on the South West Peninsula including the Plaka Beach (pictured right) where there is some really tasty
accommodation as well as superb eating facilities. The picture on the right is a view from the restaurant which has a varied and interesting menu. The beach is well equipped and comfortably quiet. Car hire is reasonably cheap on the Island and you can cover most of it in three days. It's worth mentioning that if a Greek motorist sounds his horn behind you it is a courteous way of asking you to move over so that he may overtake, please don't react in the usual English way.
(Left) Sunrise at Amboula beach, just above Tsilivi which
was where Janice and I stayed with our son and daughter
on our first visit to the Island in 1996. The town of Tsilivi
has changed quite a bit since we were there but it was
pleasant revisiting it again in 2002. The appartments where
we stayed had had another floor added and there were
many more new Beach Front Hotels. I know we must
progress but the Islanders are losing touch with the very thing that attracted so many of it's early visitors and
following the "Bennidorm" path to riches. That said it's still
a beautiful place to visit before its too late.
Must Places to visit and
things to do:
The Lofos Restaurant (pictured below) 13 Km
from the town of Zakynthos on the way from Planos to Alykes this is a must place
to visit. Besides the excellent food and friendly service this is one of the
most beautiful views I have ever seen. From the terrace outside you can see
right down to the South of the island and the sea beyond. The church of St
George sits proudly on the hill to the North and I can honestly say with my hand
on heart if I could choose a place to take my last breath on this earth this
would be in the running. You may think that is a little over the top but before you dismiss
it completely, go there preferably at the quieter times and watch the sun go
down, then you too will be smitten. My son Dylan and I discovered the
restaurant completely by accident while exploring the island on scooters in
1995. Janice and I have been back many times since on our two trips to the
island and hope to visit again very soon.
Speedboat trip: Half day speedboat trip
takes you to the Blue Caves, the Skinari Lighthouse, the Shipwreck, the
Stalactites, St Nickolas harbour and your back by 1 in the afternoon. This boat
take up to 25 people and is the most comfortable way to see the island. Avoid
the day trips round the Island, these are for the experienced sailors only - or
carry a bucket!
Coach Tour around the Island:
The comfortable air conditioned buses take you to the most fantastic viewpoints
of Zakynthos. Stops include: St. Mavra church, the Shipwreck, Volimes, St.
Nickolas harbor, Blue Caves, Bohali
Take a trip over to Kefalonia or Olympia: These are the best trips on offer and I can recommend the Olympia trip (see above or Check out my seven wonders page on the Statue of Zeus)
If you ever thought you would be able to
visit the Shipwreck and enjoy the quiet serenity of the cove please download
this movie clip and remember that it can cost up to
€40 for the privilege. DOWNLOAD NOW (632kb
wmv file)
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